Desta Review in Atlanta’s Creative Loafing
Desta: Modern Ethiopian
New Ethiopian in the Williamsburg Shopping Center
Published 07.23.08
By Cliff Bostock
Desta may be serving the most palatable Ethiopian food I’ve ever tasted. Its chef, Titi, who visited our table, calls her cooking “modern.” That means the spices are cut back somewhat, not especially to please the American palate, but to let the flavors of the prime ingredients dominate.
“I only buy the highest-quality meats,” she said. “I can season the food with the usual spices if people ask, but I’m more interested in letting the taste of the meats come through.”
I’m guessing that’s why there are no wat (stewed) dishes on the menu. Instead, the meats are all cooked tibs-style – sautéed, usually with onions and other seasonings.
Or, if you really want to test the quality of the meat, you can order kitfo, basically Ethiopian steak tartare. The kitchen minces rib-eye and, as is traditional, combines it with clarified butter and a red chili spice. In my two meals at Desta, this was my favorite dish. The flavor of the meat is totally complemented by the piquant seasoning, a balance that’s unusual in my experience with this dish. It was served with a small mound of aiyb, similar to cottage cheese and capable of cooling the spices for the overly sensitive.